Morning Under the Plane Tree: From Çengelköy to Kandilli

1. 01
   History

   Step Ashore at the Pier

   Begin the walk at Çengelköy Pier, a registered historic structure and one of the Bosphorus walking-route stops defined by the governorate. In the 17th century, this was one of the coast’s largest settlements after Üsküdar, and until the 1960s it was predominantly Greek. Today’s route starts exactly in front of this pier.

   Çengelköy İskelesi, Istanbul, Turkey
2. 02
   Food

   Sit Beneath the Plane Tree

   Pause under the historic plane tree in the square at Tarihî Çınaraltı Tea Garden. Municipal records list the tree as 180 years old and protected as a tree worth conserving. The tea garden beneath it has been operating since the 1970s, and the neighborhood keeps its own rhythm here: tea comes from the tea garden, pastries come from nearby tradespeople, and the tables are shared.

   Tarihî Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi, Çengelköy, Istanbul, Turkey
3. 03
   Local

   Gather the Morning’s Ingredients in the Bazaar

   Wander through Çengelköy Bazaar, where a few narrow streets preserve the texture of a Bosphorus village with greengrocers, fishmongers, bakeries, and nut shops side by side. The neighborhood was known for centuries for its produce, especially its cucumbers, cherries, and quinces, though they are no longer grown here today.

   Çengelköy Çarşısı, Istanbul, Turkey
4. 04
   History

   Read the Waterside Mansion from the Outside

   Stop on the coastal road facing Sadullah Paşa Yalısı, one of the Bosphorus mansions most studied by historians. It dates from the late 18th century. Its exterior looks like a traditional Turkish waterside mansion, while the interior was arranged in a baroque style with a central hall that is octagonal below and oval-domed above, surrounded by eight rooms on each level. The selamlık section was demolished; the surviving structure is the harem building.

   Sadullah Paşa Yalısı, Çengelköy, Istanbul, Turkey
5. 05
   Local

   See the Seven-Hundred-Metre Fishing Stretch

   Continue to the coastal road in front of Kuleli Campus, where the present barracks building took shape in the reign of Abdülaziz under Garabet Amira Balyan. The stone towers at both ends were rebuilt during the 1960s restoration based on an 1841 engraving. The shoreline in front is also listed by the municipality as a fishing ground of roughly seven hundred metres.

   Kuleli Sahil Yolu in front of Kuleli Yerleşkesi, Istanbul, Turkey
6. 06
   History

   Enter the Mosque That Burned and Reopened

   Visit Vaniköy Mosque, built in 1665 by Vânî Mehmed Efendi after the grove here was gifted to him by Sultan Mehmed IV. The neighborhood itself takes its name from him. This timber-frame mosque suffered major damage in a fire caused by electrical wiring in November 2020, and its calligraphy collection was lost. After restoration, it reopened for worship in June 2023.

   Vaniköy Camii, Istanbul, Turkey
7. 07
   Photography

   Stand Beside the Deepest Water

   Reach the shore by Kandilli Pier, beside Kandilli Burnu and Kandilli Mosque. Kandilli takes its name from seven nights of ceremonial illumination held here during the reign of Murad IV to celebrate the birth of a prince. Directly across lies Bebek Bay, and between these two points is the deepest part of the Bosphorus at 110 metres. The municipality’s fishing guide also lists Kandilli among the first places people think of for bluefish.

   Kandilli İskelesi önü, Kandilli, Istanbul, Turkey
8. 08
   Nature

   Set the Table in the Grove

   Finish the walk at Cemile Sultan Korusu, a Bosphorus-facing grove that once formed the gardens of pavilions built for Cemile Sultan, daughter of Abdülmecid. Today it is operated by a foundation, and the income goes toward the grove’s upkeep. A breakfast table set beneath monumental trees brings the day full circle, ending in a grove after it began under a plane tree.

   Cemile Sultan Korusu, Kandilli, Istanbul, Turkey

Check opening hours before you go. Hours, access conditions and weather can change.